LLANGANUCO-SANTA CRUZ TREKKING

Location: Callejón de Huaylas, Ancash

Travel Time: 3 to 4 days

Difficulty: Moderate throughout most of the route and difficult near the Punta Gorge (4,750 m)

  The attraction of this circuit lies in the variety of its climates, altitudes and wild flora, but particularly in this two excellent lookout points from which the beauty of the highest peaks of the White Range may be admired. The trail traverses four mirror-like lakes. The Llanganuco and Santa Cruz Gorges are the deepest and narrowest cuts across the White Range.

 How To Get There

There are no regular flights from Lima to Huaraz. But there is an air taxi service to the airport of Anta, 21 km North of the city. The trip is usually made bye bus, a service with several departures daily and a travel time of 8 hours to Huaraz. It is advisable to sleep in Huaraz (3,090 m) in order to become acclimatized. Accommodations and camping equipment are available in the city. Ask for information at the Tourist Office and in Casa de los Guías (the Guide´s House), a short distance from the main square.

After making the one hour descent via the Santa river valley to the main square in Yungay, pick-ups leave to make the three hour climb up to the Llanganuco Pass (on a dirt road). The trek starts at this point.

Route Description

Looking downwards from the Llanganuco pass (4,767 m) the trekker will see two emeralds set in an Andean gorge. These are the Llanganuco lakes, perhaps the most beautiful of the 267 lakes in the White Range. But , by simply raising his eyes he will discover a majestic landscape: the Huandoy (6,395 m), Pisco (5,732 m), Chacraraju (6,112 m), Yanapaccha (5,460 m), Chopicalqui (6, 354 m) and Huascarán (6,768 m) snow-capped mountains, the highest in Peru, whose snowy peaks thrust into the clean Highland sky.

The path descends through the Morococha Gorge to the tiny village of Colcabamba (3,300 m), and continues, well marked, down the Huaripampa ravine and cutting through a grove of queñuas (Polylepis), the imposing Taulliraju (5,830 m) comes into view. Quite close, at the beginning of the Paria ravine (3,800 m), a sign marks the campsite.

Here, far from “civilization”, specially at dawn, herds of shy vicuñas (8 to 15 specimens) are not a rare sight, and with luck, a taruca (deer), a relatively small animal less then one meter high, with big ears and eyes and gray fur might be seen. Another fair sized animal, though not dangerous is the spectacled bear (the only bear in South America), and a basic figure in traditional Andean literature. The light-colors fur around its eyes gives the impression it is wearing spectacles. It is less than one meter high and flees from humans, so be sure to carry fieldglasses with you.

It is not by chance that this area has a higher density of fauna, as the most rugged part of the route is between the Paria gorge and Punta Union Pass (4,750 m). from Punta Union it is possible to clearly distinguish not only the streams that flow into the Atlantic Ocean, but also flowing Westwards in the opposite direction down into the nearer pacific Ocean. Likewise, new impressive snow capped peaks, Artesonraju (6,025 m), Quitaraju (6,036 m) and Rinrijirca (5,810 m), come into view. The route continues descending through a stony pre-hispanic trail towards the Santa Cruz ravine, with Lake Taullicocha (4,200 m) extending to the right. Immediately thereafter, the route crosses, an area called Taullipampa (4,200 m). The prefix “Taulli” comes from the name of the blue-spotted shrubs (lupinus spp.) which proliferate there. The camping space widens out not far down at the point where Santa Cruz and Arhuaycocha ravines converge.

The next day from the camp itself, at the bottom  of the Arhuaycocha ravine, it is possible to admire the Southeastern face of the Alpamayo summit, considered by many as the most beautiful in the world.

The route now follows the Santa Cruz ravine. It goes first by Lake Jatuncocha (3,900 m) and then by Lake Ichipocha (3,840 m). Yacupatos or fast-water ducks, abound in this area. They are birds with small slender bodies, tails with pointed feathers, red beaks and feet, gray back, and black and white stripped abdomen, skillful swimmers and divers.

Adequate camping areas exist throughout the Santa Cruz ravine. The ichu soon yields to a forest of native trees such as queñuas (the tree appearing in Peru’s national coat of arms), alisos (alders), and chachacomos.

The Yurazmayu river which forms the Santa Cruz ravine, flows downs swiftly and capriciously. There is increasingly more oxygen in the air. Then comes the village of Cashapampa (2,900 m). Here the circuit ends and one may go by station wagon to the city of Caraz (at 18 km). From this peaceful white town, one of the few in the Callejón de Huaylas that was not devasted by the 1970 earthquake, the sun is often seen setting behind the Andean peaks in the midst of a display of radiant red and violet light.

CAMINOS DEL INCA TREKKING

Location: Cusco, Machu Picchu

Duration: 3 days minimum

Difficulty: The very steep ascent to the Warmiwañusqa Pass in the first stage is very hard going. From thereon the altitude decreases and the path is more clearly marked and accessible.

  Attractions

This 35 km hike mainly follows a well finished cobbled path, which passes by at least seven major archaeological sites. It ends in Machu Picchu. The rout begins in the Highlands and runs through impressive forests and lakes, and by historic monuments. Outstanding flora grows along the way, including an incredible variety of orchids, puyas, begonias, Cedars, bays, etc. are among the abundant forest species. The fauna includes many specie considered to be endangered, such as the spectacled bear and the cock-of-the-rocks, as well as other animals, such as pumas, Andean foxes, tarucas (deer), river otters, wildcats, numerous birds, parrots, hummingbirds, etc.

Climate

The best trekking season is between May and October. During these months the climate is warm dry, while heavy rains are common between November and March. However, it should be remembered that in the months of June, July and August temperature may drop below zero.

Necessary Equipment

Mountains boots, woollen stocking, bermudas, sweat suit, raincoat, woolen sweater and thermal coat; cotton T-shirts, hat, sun protection lotion or lip ointment; medium size knapsack, canteen (with at least one insect repellent, personal medicines and a tent.

 

Signposting

International standard signs provide  hikers with important information on climate, distances, services, etc. at different points on the route.

Prohibitions

Sleeping within the archaeological monuments is banned. No depredation or the use of bonfires is allowed.

Altitude recommendations

Keeping a lemon drop in the mouth helps to prevent dehydration and altitude sickness.

How To Get There

The city of Cusco is the departure point for this now legendary hike. Once in the “Imperial City”, it is best to contact a tourist agency or establishments which offer trekking equipment, most of which are located in the main square. The condition of the equipment should be checked before getting under way. A deposit of as much as US$ 200 may be request. The bulk of the luggage with which you arrive in Cusco will be left for safekeeping at your hotel and you carry only what is necessary during the trek.

Thieving is not frequent, but some cases have been reported. Therefore, it is advisable to be part of a group of 6 or more persons. Once the group is duly equipped, the train to the Jungle city of Quillabamba should be boarded. The first train leaves Cusco at 6 a.m., which is the starting point of the Caminos del Inca.

Route Description

The train drops its passengers, dust and cargo at kilometer 88 exactly before it disappears into a tunnel. Be ready to get off, as the train stops only for a minute. After crossing the restless Urubamba river over a suspension bridge built upon Inca foundations, you are on the best knows trekking route in Peru, and the most famous in South America.

The great archaeological center of Llaqtapata is a three kilometer walk from the bridge, though an eucalyptus forest. It contains more than one hundred houses of various types, a big trapezoidal square and two-story buildings in a ruinous state. The row of 13 stone farming terraces extending along two kilometers is the structure which is the best preserved. Its construction corresponds to the sound concept of incorporating the sharp slope of the terrain for agricultural use. Usually, trekkers do not obtain more than a fleeting glimpse of these terraces because of their proximity to the starting point.

 

Once past Llaqtapata, the road climbs sharply, then it ascends uniformly and slowly, accompanied by the soft rippling of the Kusichaca river. Molle trees and tuna plants give a sense of freshness to the environment. After four hours on the Caminos del Inca, the rustic huts of Wayllabamba (2,772 m) come into view. It is the only town on the circuit, and ideal for a rest and change of direction. Wayllabamba is locates in a gorge with farming terraces with low walls and aqueducts dating from Inca times.

 

This stage requires the biggest physical effort of the whole route. The Kusichaca ravine must be abandoned to climb a sharp cut made by the Hatun Wayruro stream. Here, there are two choices for the Caminos del Inca travelers, according to their state of mind: those on a tight schedule not interested in the landscape or archaeological monuments and eager to reach Machu Picchu in the shortest time possible, and those with a more curious temperament interested in all they see along the way. The first may complete the hike in two days. The second will not miss the opportunity of appreciating the calm fantasy of the forest bordering the route, and will camp in Yunca Chimpa before crossing the Warmiñusqa Pass the following day.

 

When the forest ends there is nothing left but ichu and the wind. It is then that the highest point in the journey is reached at the Warmiñusqa Pass (4,200 m). From there on the road descends immediately, dropping steeply. There is no danger of becoming lost, but rather of injury from the numerous stones.

 

Before arriving in the Jungle, the road enters a small depression formed by the Pacaymayu stream. This is a mosquito-infested area, which gives the incentive to climb a small mountain atop of which are the archeological ruins of Runturaqay. They are a small well shaped group whose intact walls seem to have defied time. Fifteen minutes later along the route two tiny lakes languidly situated amid the ichu. Immediately after the Runturaqay Pass (3,900 m), a walled complex with interior niches, which may have been a tambo (warehouse), watch outpost and ceremonial station. It marks a boundary line. Looking back one may view the majesty of the snow-capped Santa Teresa, but looking eastward there is nothing but dense Jungle stretching ahead as far as the eye can see. After the Runkurakay Pass everything seems tinted green, as though it were gigantic map of Peru.

 

From this point on, there are no other steep ascents, and in general the path goes steadily downward to Machu Picchu. Two hours later, the citadel of Sayajmarka (3,500 m) appears in the Jungle. This is a pre Hispanic architectural complex with small narrow streets, rooms built on different levels, liturgical foundations, courtyards, canals surrounded by a protective wall, a flight of stone steps. There is adequate camping space near the magnificent walls. The view is spectacular.

 

At this point, the Caminos del Inca is a stone road which descents without interruption to Machu Picchu. A fair size lake can be seen to the right, and red and yellow flowers tinge the green vegetation before the road enters a tunnel carved out of the rock. This is a mysterious are. Phuyupatamarka (3,680 m) rises out of the mist with its wellpreserved architecture. This was clearly a center for the distribution of water to land at  lower altitudes. It has a solid foundation many meters into the ground. It is assumed that this archaeological group was so called because of an orchid of that name which grows in the area and is in bloom virtually the whole year round. Machu Picchu lies at approximately 8 km walking distance.

 

The Inca road connecting Phuyupatamarka with Wiñay Wayna (young woman) was discovered only in 1984. The route is provided with adequate signs, but it is best to avoid coming too close to the edges of the precipice. This seems to be a well used area which points to possible future discoveries of other roads and ruins.

 

TAQUILE ISLAND

 

Location: Lake Titicaca, Puno

Travel Time: 3 hours

Difficulty: The only likely problem is the altitude, but this need not be an obstacle as no great distances are covered.

 

Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world, is also the mythical setting from which the founders of the Inca Empire, Manco Cápac and Mama Ocllo, emerged. Legends apart, the fact remains that a fantasy island lies in its deep blue waters. Its magic is simple. Quechua, which is spoken within its domains, stresses its isolation amid an Aymara-speaking area. However, Taquile really owes its distinction to two essential characteristics: its geography, offering a spectacular view from its hills, its beautiful beaches, and its standing as a first-rate textile center.

 

How To Get There

It is necessary to fly into Juliaca to get to Puno (population: 80,000) sited on the shores of Lake Titicaca. “While Puno dances, Juliaca progresses” is the saying heard in Juliaca. There are motorboats with capacity for 20 people, which after a three hour voyage on the lake, land on a Taquile beach. They may be boarded at the wharf in Puno at 8:30 am.

 

Description Of The Island

The access to the island (7.5 km long and 2.5 km wide) is strenuous: 600 stone steps can leave the most intrepid breathless. The summit, at 3,800 m, glows in the distance. The landscape changes notably on finally arriving at the summit. A warm depression opens where adobe houses appear clustered around the square or scattered over the countryside. There are no hotels, but the islanders have organized themselves to welcome tourists, and for US$1.50 the night you are offered privacy, tranquility and the opportunity to share at several restaurants. As there is no electricity on the island, flashlights, candles and matches should be carried. You will be surprised though, by their use of solar panels, mainly for cooking.

 

At the southern end of the island, to the right of the landing point, a small beach in the shape of a half moon extends along the mirror-like calm and blueish Titicaca waters. The lake is cool, but the beauty of the place, with Bolivian snowy peaks in the background, lure even the most hesitant tourist to bathe in the clear waters.

 

Taquile, like the entire Titicaca plateau, is rain-fed. A delay in the arrival of the rains in September or October may postpone the growing season, since the winter frosts and the strong daytime sun harden the land preventing cultivation with primitive hand-ploughs. Maize and potatoes are the island’s principal crops.

 

However, Taquileños really live from their textile activities. This is eaily perceived as the men walking about in rubber sandals (ojotas in quechua), wear black pants, white flannel shirts and beautiful finely woven chumpis (belts), and cover their heads with warm chullos (caps with long tassels and others with ear flaps). Women also wear ojotas and bilowy skirts, and many walk around carrying spindles. They also wear colorful belts full of designs and cover their heads with long black llicllas (mantles) that fall to their waists. The authorities are distinguished from the rest of the community by their black or brown hats. This is how they dress the year round.

 

The festival of Santiago is celebrated from July 25^th to the end of the month. Taquile has a rich folklore of 2,000 made up of peasants devotees of San Isidro and skilful weavers can afford to leave their doors unlocked and walk out at night without fear. This, and the sight of unreachable stars studding the heavens are a unique and precious experience.

 

KUELAP

 

Location: Department of Amazonas

Travel Time: 3 to 4 days

Distance: The trek is for 5 km

Difficulty: Moderate

 

Enveloped in mystery and legend, and still beautiful, wild and unknown, Kuélap (13^th century A.D.) is, together with Machu Picchu, a major archaeological monument of ascient Peru. Had this city-fortress been located in Cusco rather than in the Department of Amazonas, news of its existence would surely be more widely spread. It is in an area away from any tourist circuit and, therefore, not frequently visited. At a height of 3,000 m and set in the high area of the Utcubamba Valley, Kuélap offers an exceptional view from its walls. The construction of this archaeological complex with a circular structure and its interior dwellings of fine design, required forty million square feet of material, equivalent to three time the volume of the Great Pyramid of Egypt. Its creators were not the Incas or the Quechuas, but the Sachapuyas, an ethnic group of people of equal imagination and boldness.

 

How To Get There

 

There are three routes leading to Kuélap, one bye air and two overland. The Lima-Chachapoyas two and a half hour flight includes a stopover in Trujillo and Cajamarca. The overland route through the Department of Cajamarca and into Chachapoyas –the obligatory point of departure- involves a 24 hours trip from the Coast. The other land route which stars in Chiclayo and passes through Olmos and Bagua Grande, is much faster, with a travel time of ten hours. Chachapoyas is a small and tranquil town at an altitude of 2,234 m. Tingo, from where the ascent to the fortress of Kuélap begins, is a town 37 km away on the banks of the beautiful Utcubamba river, with remarkable colonial bridges.

 

MARCAHUASI

 

Location: Lima Highlands

Duration: 3 to 4 days

Difficulty: A relatively safe road, but it is necessary to be physically fit, and also to take precautions against cold weather and altitude (4,000 m).

When to go: May to November

 

How To Get There

There is no direct road from Lima to Marcahuasi. The trip begins in Chosica, 45 km East of Lima. Three blocks from its main square, in Parque Echenique, trucks and micros leave at 9 a.m. for the village of San Pedro de Casta. The road climbs for three hours up the steep of mountains of the Santa Eulalia Valley. The price of the trip is three to four dollars. San Pedro’s cobbled streets, tiled roofs, and the perfect harmony of its houses, all facing in the same direction, and its monumental church, make this one of the most beautiful peasant communities in Peru. From its steep square, one has the first glimpse of figures giving life to the magic plateau of Marcahuasi. It is not advisable to climb to those heights the first day, but to rest in the community hotel or in any of the private accommodations in the village.

 

Route Description

It is  recommended to rent mules to carry knapsacks and provisions. This will relieve the rigors of the ascent and will allow you to enjoy the view. The contact should be made the evening before the ascent in order to secure, in addition to the mules (each carries up to ninety kilos), the gratuitous service of a guide (the owner of the beasts who must necessarily accompany them).

It is important to be on the road before sunrise. The first part is wide but sleep. Soon trees and farms recede from view, while thousands of cactus plants begin to appear over the area. As the altitude increases, the rest stops should be more frequent.

At night, an extreme cold seems to descend from the sky. But it is worth staying awake, but warmly wrapped. One feels closer to the moon and the heavens seems brighter from Marcahuasi. It is alleged that the visitor returns feeling purified.

MANU NATIONAL PARK

 

Travel time: At least one week

When to go: From June to October

 

Attractions

The Manu National Park is a natural intangible area protected by the State. It is believed that it possesses the greatest biodiversity on the planet. In 1977, UNESCO declared it biosphric reserve because of its importance to the future of humanity.

The Manu includes 1’881,000 hectares divided into three areas: the first and the largest, encompassing 1’533,000 hectares, consists of the park itself, where no one is allowed to enter unless expressly authorized; the second comprises 257,000 hectares. In this area, research may be carried out as well as certain controlled tourist activities. The third area covering 91,000 hectares is for multiple uses and all kinds of human activities are permitted.

 

Location and Characteristics

The territory of the park covers an area which includes puna, High Jungle  (the foothills of the Eastern Andean Range) and Low Jungle or Jungle Plain which is its largest area. As a consequence of the different altitudes, it has diverse climates ranging from cold and dry in the highest parts, to humid in the overcast forests and warm in the Amazon plain. The temperature varies from 3Ú and 25ÚC with a maximum of 35ÚC. The annual rainfall also varies from 1,000 mm in the Andean sector to 4,000 mm in the cloudy forest.

 

Located at 650 km from Puerto Maldonado, the largest part of the park’s territory belongs to the Province of Manu, in the Department of Madre de Dios, and the smallest part, to the Province of Paucartambo, Department of Cusco. The park is crossed by the almost 300 km long Manu river which flows in curves, skirting hills of several sizes. This meandering favors the formation of temporary and permanent lakes that provide an ideal refuge for many species of birds.

 

The reserve contains more species of plants and animals than any similar park anywhere in the world, including some already extinct in other areas, and some unknown and still not catalogued by science. In fact, thus far, only 13 of the 33 different species of trees and lianas solely representing the ficoid genus have been identified. The number of different species varies between 2,000 and 3,000 and it is believed that at least 10% are new to science.

 

Difficulties

Torrid heat, humidity, mosquitoes, and all those problems to be expected during a long river journey where there is no possibility of lying down or having any privacy.

 

Clothing and Equipment

Lights clothes for the daytime and slightly thicker for evening. Slacks and light shirts with long sleeves, a poncho or plastic raincoat and rubber boots (which can be rented), sport or tennis shoes, and a swim suit and hat. Also carry a mosquito net and insect repellent.

 

The main agencies and institutions scheduling expeditions to the Manu are located in Cusco. They provide the required logistics for the trip which include legal paperwork and relevant permits, transportation from Cusco, guides, cooks, provisions, accommodations, etc. The average cost per week is US$600.

 

How To Get There

It is necessary to travel from Lima to Cusco. Two options exist there, and organized excursion by a specialized travel agency or taking the trip on your own, in which case you must be prepared to embark on the time-consuming procedure to obtain the required authorization, and to adhere to a duly established travel schedule which should to any modifications.

 

This beautiful but difficult journey may take between 12 and 24 hours, according to the state of repair of the road and the means of transport used, whether truck or station wagon.

 

RIVER RUNNING

 

Peru has a large number of rivers and waterways in which river running is practiced. Several rivers on the Coast, in the Highlands and Jungle are appropriate for this sport which produces an additional dose of adrenaline in the human body. The Apurimac, Huallaga, Mayo, Utcumbamba, Tambopata, and dozens of other rivers are a permanent invitation for those eager to brave the rough waters. However, not many have the necessary technical background and implements to venture into this pursuit. The rivers Urubamba and Colca in the Southern Highlands, Santa in the Northern Highlands, and Cañete near Lima, offer the best possibilities.

 

COLCA RIVER

Characteristics: This river flows down the Colca Canyon, one of the deepest in the world. It is the most spectacular water course for river running in Peru with perilous rapids and imposing landscape.

Kayaking may be practiced along 44 km downs to an altitude of 1,400 m above sea level in a unique place in the world that has earned more than one article in the National Geographic magazine. “The Shower of the Condor”, a cascade falling for some 1,000 m against one of the walls of the canyon, dazzles kayakers when the vacuum that it forms decomposes the water into spray.

 

Technical Data: For excursionists with great rive running experience. Rapids: class III, IV and V. Climate: dry and cold between five in afternoon and nine in the morning (the sun disappears from the canyon between these hours). Season: from  May to September.

 

How To Get There: To Arequipa at 1,010 km from Lima. Flights from Lima to Cusco. Then by road to Cabanaconde and on foot to Canco.

 

URUBAMBA RIVER

Characteristics: The Santa river flows down the Callejón de Huaylas between the White and Black Ranges. Its rapids between Anta and Yungay are the most satisfactory for beginners in kayaking. Between Yungay and Caraz the waters are rougher, but not excessively.

 

Technical Data: Huaraz is at an altitude of 3,100 m. Climate: dry and cold. Rapids: class II and III. Season: from May to September.

 

How To Get There: From Lima by bus to Huaraz, then 30 km northwards.

 

CAÑETE RIVER

Characteristics: The Cañete Valley, South of Lima, has one of the largest flows on the Peruvian Coast. The town of Lunahuaná, 40 km distant from the sea, is known for its vineyards and its fresh water shrimps. Very close to the village of San Gerónimo the water turns rougher making it suitable for river running.

 

Technical Data: Good climate. An altitude of between 300 and 400 m. Season: from December to April. Rapids: class II and IV. There are accommodations in Lunahuaná, but the trip to and from Lima can be made in a single day.

 

How To Get There: Cañete is 137 km South of Lima on the South Pan-American Highway. From Cañete a dirt road leads to Lunahuaná (32 km) making a total travel time of 3 hours from Lima.